Tuesday 4 June 2013

adventures planned and unplanned

Mon 3rd
Another 5.00am start and its Celts away. Debs and not so big George and the three of us hit Tribhuvan airport for a gradual reintegration to first world comforts. Even RK and his galvanised bucket of a digestive tract is feeling slighly green ...looks like the Kathmandu quickstep as he skuttles off to the bog.

Sun 2nd
5.30am like a scene from apocalypse now the big beast rose over the runway horizon...look at the it huvvers was another classic Dougism. Farewells to friends Addie, Mann, Bindra, Gaji (sorry about the spelling lads) Survived further blatant exhibitionism as Atilla desecrated the unnerving last resting place for another crashed Himalayan plane.
Impressive noise and downdraft from the rust bucket. International relief on take off and spontaneous applause as we landed in a livestock field. Sultry heat cracking toast and eggs ...things were looking until the bus arrived ...mmm. Team player rob was ferrying big bags up from the feed trough to the bus miss placed footing on a slippery stepping stone valiantly fought to recovery to finish ten toes in the air trapped on his back like a gassed up auld ewe...sorry to report it was a German bag that got dunked ....every cloud...
Within 30sec it was clear the bus was easily  the most extreme undertaking since entering Nepal. Steep switch backs, landslides, single track, no handbrake, zero leg room, Bollywood and horn blaring...it looked like an epileptics trip to Kathmandu. Brief rest bite to empty bladder and underwear. 7hrs of all over body massage and the big smog of KTM appeared as twilight fell. Relief to enter the oasis of the shanker hotel. Finally we could think of home. RG whistlestop spree in Thamel where he was sitting duck for shop keepers. RK&A had more wit. A final delicious but bus lagged meal. Hugs and emails exchanged. We had met some great people enjoyed high, endured lows and the craic has been mighty on the way. Sincere thanks to you it's has been a privilege.
 

Sat 1st
After an encouraging first light rain and cloud enshrouded Lukla hightening tension and rumours of stuck for a week, missed slots back of the queue, 400 trapped with no food water. Sensibly Raj was absent to work the problem leaving opportunity for Kangaroo coffee shop courts like side show Bob to mobilise the minions and spoil every flat white in earshot. Units of time involving food was our plan to avoid going stir crazy with Yatzee as back up. A was straight in rhythm snickers pause bun pause mars. Rk was wisely waiting while Rg was emersed in blogsnorkling. People watching as folks lost the plot became entertainment. Attillas hen night europop disco almost killed off old Christof...along with the rest of us. Interesting to observe miraculous recovery of Eva Braun to the tones of like a virgin. Doubting Thomas became a troublesome truck with his mind as pickled as his dress sense I demand a shower every 3hrs and a 5 star hotel in Lukla.
 
Learning the next oman air flight was both 4 days away and full a sense of gravitas set in...steady hoofed Rk advised patience. Murdock, Face and Hannibal Raj had a plan not the Luftwaffe but 1975 Russian M17 millitary evacuation helicopter would shuttle us on batches of 25 to the road head at Jiri for a 6 hr bus ride to Kathmandu all for a fist full of dollars. All internal flights in Nepal had been Cagrounded due to 2 crashes that day explaining the silence inspite of improving conditions. Debs George and Caroline rejigged their contingency plan with Trotters independant copters. Another unrolling of the sleeping bag for what we all prayed would be our last night in Shangri la ...Lukla style. Thankfully night watchman Doug openned the port cul lace before John had the windows in chaperoning Tim and Paul after one too many lemonades

Fri 31st

Monjo to Lukla was our last day trekking slightly fairer skiers gave hope to getting out Lukla. Trek finished its been a great bunch to spend time with. Seeing other groups factions and rifts we have been most fortunate. Groups who couldnt see beyond their own noses. george contimplated suicide as Gloria Gurner joined us for lunch with her top ten gripes...incredible what some folks expect inspite of how well we cared for in such primative circumstances. A la carte dinner was chips beans fried egg and bread to the horror of the Catalans.

 
Crew tips and gear were distributed with a demo in efficiency for the long winded and wingy swiss .....including star attraction of Percy pigs. Sirdar guides and porters are the heroes who make this trek possible.










Thur 30th
Breakfast was like a paraplegic shell suit convention. As the rain lashed the price of ponchos rocketed. 2 ultra runners staggered in after overnight stay in yak sheds and even a cave .reassurance 42k was extreme enough 60k was just wrong. Pictures of George's blistered feet quickly ended the feeding frenzy. A 3 hr tramp to Monjo was subdued until Nepals answer to. Colombo and side show Bob started into karaoke.... solutions ranged from dead leg, Chinese burn, diddy nip or a wedgy.







 

Wed 29th race day
2 yrs in the planning and finally here. Buffet breakfast aka free for all was paused as 28 ultra runners left ...the Nepali military making light of the ice clad loose rock. We did well to survive the tramp to the start line thanks to cantankerous yak aiming a kick at big George...hoots man
700am start after another Buto balls up. Debs was a vision of patriotism..like an SNP cheerleader. Like a slow motion scene from braveheart big George led the celts out of basecamp with RK wheezing a meddally of ice ice baby flower of scotland and the sash.The Jelly baby nature valley feedathon started 745.

RK grafted up to The half way point with the tank empty. Fluids, gels and quick lesson in JBs as nutrition. Having been up on RGs prediction the hard earned gain ebbed away as fatigue set in. The formation of choice was A setting sensible pace with RG shadowing RK with a menacingly sharp trekking pole. It was working as we passed the king of India and General Mao but not enough to pick off Attila the hen. Gelling pup for the very unpleasant climbs to come. Flash back to 2008 mera peak summit day where Monty returned an essential gel as unfit for purpose ie it wasn't opened! Thankfully we all manned up and self openned....troopers. RK climbed like Messner as we topped out for the last trot home we swept up team mate Rob having "the worst day of his life"
 
As mist and rain enshrouded us it became a typical Norn iron training session. Finally Namche emerged from the gloom one final turn to an eerily deserted finish area. 10 hrs 48 mins of hard labour. Respect to A&RK on first marathons esp RK epic effort. Kata, medal and shell suit gifts we were ready to for a night out in .....Liverpool. Hobbling back to the lodge the final stairs were almost too much. A warm welcome home from team mates Sub 10hrs were Doug, Tim and one legged Hyo Sub 9 were Mike, Paul, Richard. However John set the bar high with a stunning 7hrs23mins. Caroline was home 20mins ahead of the paddys. Greatest cheer for Angela, Debs and big George. The team was all in safe as Joan and Isabella completed....and so to a rock free, dry, warm bed...out like a li....


Tue 28th
Base camp life seemed much easier with a bit of viz and brightness.
Amazing effort to feed 120 runners in shifts in this harsh moonscape.
Mock race scheduled for 900am right under the cracking Khumbu icefall what a place to run a race.
SbM banner in as many pics as possible. Last years winner paraded an Olympic torch while like lemmings hell bent on mass injury we followed instruction on an ineffective announcer who looked like BenazirButo on a bad lippy day.
Further team fun with a snowball fight on the worlds highest mountain. Slow mo kit organisation, feed and hydration in readiness for tomorrow race. A on one lung RG on a strapped cankle and RK sporting a yak bell it was setting up for another pantomime.
Our last meal included 2 foil wrapped dairy milk...what a treat. Sleep was elusive esp as 2 huge rocks subsided beside the death tent...loosening bowels and sphincter...unfortunately the crows nest bog had also collapsed. RK hummed himself to sleep with "ice ice baby" as temperature fell to -11 degrees

Mon 27th Gorak Shep to EBC
Breakfast was highlighted with arrival of Lizzie Hawker (worlds best lady ultra marathon runner) competition for the yak bell boys
A duff weather trek today with snow in a very quiet base camp as summit season had almost finished. However rumours of an 82yr old Nepali high on Everest planning for a diamond anniversary on 29th
Choosing tents RG room mate Hyo opted for the death tent perilously close to huge rocks resting on melting ice. Close by was the crows nest of a toilet which required quads of steel and a safety harness.  RK&A the tent looked less perilous but contained marginally less water than the Bhote  Kose river. A spent a tough night between a rock and a wet place.

RK&A the tent looked less perilous but contained marginally less water than the Bhote

Sun 26th Kala Patar 5500m
Another clear day early start for acclimatisation trek to the summit for one the best views on our planet. Hard graft but so rewarding. 40minutes absorbing snapping recording the grandure....lifetime moment to bore the grand kids with.
The afternoon was spent reclining on the beach that is Gorak strand before A&RG tested their performance over the bouncy mud to find 20mins per km was possible.
RGs school boy error in the hairy armpit room. 1 led to 2 as slash became movement. Reaching into an empty pocket for tissues and wipes....not good....options?
1 sacrifice the kacks with a wipe and dump (only 2 pairs in trek
2 Hoik up the breeks and John Wayne it back the room
3 Nepali style wash the undercarriage and shake you booty until dry
4 revisit the used toilet tissue bucket (the lowest form of reincarnation)
Opting for 4 RG unplugged the relevant synapses and completed the paper work


Sat 25th Loboche to Gorak Shep 5140m
Breathtaking literally and metaphorically. Personal highs for most of the team. The notorious Khumbu icefall, base camp and indeed the summit of Everest complete with spindrift limiting summit bids for today. Our bubble burst entering the armpit lodge of the Solu Khumbu. Silver lining as chips and beans lunch reminded us of hame. The hairs of the armpit were the lodge toilets...





Fri 24th Dingboche to Loboche 4910m
One of the most memorable day walks. Island peak, Lhotse, Peak 38, Ama Dablam, Pumori, Nuptse, Lingtren all majestic peaks. Terms for RK marathon were finalised a yak ebell and tail to be worn and the team would contribute SbM funds.






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